Learn How To Change A Seat Occupancy Sensor

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This challenge has been a long time coming for me. Almost a 12 months ago I left my home windows down throughout a pretty spectacular thunderstorm (by chance pressed the unlock button on my key in my pocket whereas I used to be strolling away from the car and each windows and the sunroof opened), and due to some moderately drastic measures on my half to dry out the car the one lasting damage was that I now had a seatbelt and anotepad.com airbag warning mild on my dashboard. I used to be pretty quickly ready to find out that these lights had been being caused by a defective passenger occupancy sensor. Unfortunately, BMW does not promote just the sensor, but fairly your entire backside seat cushion for a cool $1200. Well I did not want to do this. So I managed to make it by way of many a month with these annoying warning lights until someday I occurred upon a listing on a salvage automotive elements site that was selling a standalone seat sensor! I snatched up the half and then spent a whole day switching them out. In researching the way to get into the seats I was unable to search out much of anything helpful on this discussion board so I figured I should write up this DIY to help others out. 1. Remove the seat (duh). You will use the T50 bit to remove all four screws holding the seat down. Once free, go to the trunk and disconnect the battery. Back in the cabin, push the chair again so you may see underneath and disconnect the yellow wiring harness. There's a black tab on the facet which you can fit a small screwdriver in. Pull that tab out so far as it'll go, then pull out the wiring harness. There's a separate wire connector on top too: squeeze the sides to launch it and disconnect that too. Now pull the seat out of the automobile. This is simpler when you additionally take the headrest off. 2. Now you are going to must take away the plastic cowl on the righthand aspect of the seat that has the seat controls on it. This piece is held on with 5 plastic tabs: Three are seen on the underside of the piece and a pair of are hidden inside close to the highest. I was able to get all but the righthand inside tab utilizing simply my palms. To get that last tab I needed to bend a hook shape into a chunk of thick wire and fish that via to the tab and pull the tab whereas pulling up on the whole piece. That was difficult. As soon as off, you will see easy methods to controls are wired up, simply unplug them so you possibly can remove the trim totally. 3. As soon as the outer plastic trim is off, you will be confronted with a second plastic piece. To remove this there's only one bolt (T30) and then you just should wiggle it around until it pops off. There are some wires attached to this piece with a plastic rivet which does not appear like it is meant to return off so I left this piece still partially connected to the seat. 4. Subsequent, there's another plastic trim piece on the other side of the seat on the again nook. Use the T20 bit to remove the screw, and pull the piece off. 5. There's now only one last piece of trim left, and it's a pain. It's the decrease plastic piece on the front of the chair. You may see that there are three attachment factors. The outer two are easy: simply depress the outward facing tab with a small screwdriver and pull outward on the piece. They will pop out. The center attachment level is harder as a result of the tab you'd need to press in is actually going through inward in direction of the seat so you cannot get to it. You'll be able to, nonetheless, use a small screwdriver and put the top inside the attachment point, angling it in order that it catches on the tab on the inside, and pull the piece downward. It's going to come off ultimately. 4. Now it is time to start removing the leather-based! The point of eradicating all this plastic trim was to be in a position to easily and fully remove the whole seat cushion. Word how all around the seat the leather-based is stitched to this plastic lip. Now that we've eliminated all the trim, you'll be able to pull this plastic lip off of its hold on the seat body. There's one lengthy piece for your entire front, one medium piece within the again, and two brief pieces, one on both again facet of the chair. Also remember to undo the little bits on the again corners the place the leather-based is held by a plastic button and is stretched over a metallic nub. Now we are able to pull the back flap through the gap in between the upper and lower halves of the chair after which, from the back ahead, pull the cushion up. There's just one final point of attachment: simply earlier than the leg extension there's a plastic rib that's attached to the seat frame. This rib is just held in by some metallic tabs, you can start on one end and pull up and it will come out. 5. Now for the real enjoyable part: we need to take away the leather-based from the foam cushion so that we will get on the occupancy sensor. On the underside of the cushion, beginning from the again, you'll see many steel hogties. I used a pair of pliers to remove them. Simply pinch the ring and switch it until the ends are going through you, then pull them apart and remove the ring. There are four on the surface of the cushion to remove. Then on the inside you may need to take away a bunch extra. I did eleven rings in whole, I believe. When you get get deep enough between the foam and the leather-based, you can absolutely take away the outdated sensor. It is glued in on the front and on both facet bolsters. 6. Put in your new sensor! I glued mine again in with some Gorilla Glue Gel. Watch out because not much seems to persist with that foam. I most likely went by way of 4-5 completely different glues before I discovered the Gorilla Glue. 7. It's all downhill from here. Now it is advisable to reattach the leather to the foam. To do this, I used zip ties. Simply put them in the precise spots where you removed the metal rings. For a few of the tougher parts to get a zip tie in place, I used to be able to push my metallic wire by means of the hole and use it as a information for the zip tie. 8. Reattach that sucker again to the seat body. Nothing too tough here, simply take it slow and go within the reverse from earlier than. It's going to all match. Remember to plug in your new seat sensor to the chair. 9. Reinstall the chair. General this project took me about 6-eight hours. Eradicating the plastic trim is difficult, eradicating the hog rings is a ache, and getting the leather reattached to the foam takes time. That mentioned, it is all utterly doable with minimal instruments. I've written this up as greatest I can, however I'm positive I omitted a few steps.